Driver
#1 was a young speed demon, who didn’t really start off on the right foot with
us. After confirming that we were leaving at 7am twice with him before the day
of departure he still managed to arrive almost an hour late in the true
tradition of BST. (Bhutanese Stretchable Time) Then having loaded the luggage
into his small Suzuki Alto, he proceeded to request more money for the journey
and we were about to start searching for another driver when he begrudgingly
took to the wheel.
At the immigration checkpoint just outside the
capital my spirits were lifted by recognizing the officer checking our
paperwork. He was a key goal-scoring player in the Sherubste College soccer
team that won the Royal Wedding Cup in 2011at Rangjung and I recognized him
immediately. He also recognized us and was charming. Not only did he
efficiently stamp our road permit but he also walked us back to the car wishing
us a safe journey.
Not
long after that we made a brief stop at Dochu La. No matter how many times we
see those chortens we cannot fail to be impressed. However this time the clouds
completely obstructed the view across the valley to the mountains beyond. Though
we knew they were there, the sheer drop at the cliff face was a sea of clouds
and the mountains were completely obscured.
Our
next stop was unexpected and the reason behind it was something of a surprise.
It is unusual to see huge trees felled and lying by the side of the road here
in nature loving Bhutan but when we joined the line up of waiting vehicles that
was exactly our visual. The sounds of even more gigantic trees crashing to the
ground confirmed for us that this was definitely a scheduled event. We assumed
that widening the road was the reason behind the felling. By the time the line of
vehicles got mobile again our driver was obsessed with making up for lost time
and went into racing car mode and from that point on we didn’t dare request any
other stops for fear of the consequences.
He
suggested a stop for lunch at Nobding and we were more than happy to take a
break from the treacherous roads and his reckless driving. I also took the
opportunity to photograph the local artwork on the walls of general stores and
houses in the town while we waited for lunch to be prepared. In record time we
were back in the vehicle and off once again. Just outside the town we stopped
to present a local farmer with a paper cone of doma (betel nut) and were told
that he was the father of a friend of the driver. Another 10 minutes down the
road that very friend joined us in the vehicle so that the driver would not
return to Thimphu alone in the dark.
Although
we had planned to stop en route to deliver some groceries to one of the
teachers in Tshangkha, we were unable to spot her on the roadside and for fear of
inducing our driver greater feats of daring, we simply handed them over to a
uniform wearing student in the proximity of her school. He claimed to know Miss
Sarah and that was good enough for us. She later confirmed that she did indeed
receive them so all’s well that ends well.
It was late afternoon when we were deposited at the front door of the Tashi Ninjay Guesthouse and we were delighted to be in Trongsa alive and well and gladly paid Driver #1 his pre-negotiated fee!
Trongsa
is a really lovely town with spectacular scenery and in a great location as it
is so accessible to many other regions and towns as well as being a significant
capital of a district with a spectacular Dzong. From the roadside above town
and facing that magnificent Dzong, we flew some prayer flags calling for peace
as they flap in the wind and release their blessings, with our thoughts focused
on one of my former colleagues in Australia, Marie Shane.
Monkeys prowl the town and are clever thieves in Trongsa. We spent an evening with the BCF teacher placed there and delivered a few treats from the capital to him but by far the highlight of that stop along the way was going out to see some of my former students from Rangjung.
Monkeys prowl the town and are clever thieves in Trongsa. We spent an evening with the BCF teacher placed there and delivered a few treats from the capital to him but by far the highlight of that stop along the way was going out to see some of my former students from Rangjung.
Stage #1b Trongsa to Taktse to
Trongsa: 20kms
and one hour each way each way.
It involved another driver and journey to
reach Taktse Higher Secondary School. This time we selected our driver
carefully and he drove sedately over the worst roads we have seen thus far in
Bhutan without incident. We even saw a front end loader lifting the back of an
articulated truck around the bends to align the cabin and trailer as the wheel
base was longer than the stretches of road it was negotiating! We patiently
waited for this maneuvering before we too negotiated those narrow, slippery,
muddy bends.
It
was a delight to see and chat with several former RHSS students at THSS. I got
a big kick out of hearing about their future plans and what has transpired
since I left. They are all students who didn't qualify for class XI but as I
understand it and I may be wrong- since their grades were good in the arts
subjects and it was science subjects that were the stumbling block and their
scores only slightly below the standard needed they have been given the chance
to study class XI in a special program which is only Dzongkha (the national
language) and English and will lead them to careers in translation, language
teaching or cultural
positions in Bhutan. It is the only such program in the country and a rare
opportunity. Many are first time boarders and were delighted to see the sweets
and chocolates I had for them. It was a lovely afternoon and we were so glad we
braved the roads to get out to them.
Driver # 2 was an informative chatterbox, who had no intention
of arriving in less then the 2 hours he had predicted that the journey would
take and despite the car’s almost complete lack of suspension; we enjoyed the
ride and the non stop conversation. Those 2 most dangerous of topics: politics
and religion, were his mainstays. He was thrilled to tell us that the newly
elected Prime Minister was exactly what Bhutan needed and outlined in detail
all his wonderful plans and the excellent qualities, which made him ideal for
the job. Our confession that we had no particular religious convictions puzzled
him and despite many attempts to distract him, he returned to that topic again
and again throughout the journey. We
admired the views and arrived with perfect timing at the Chisholm family’s
residence in Chumey central Bhutan.
The next 3 days evaporated in no time chatting in rapid fire
Aussie English and comparing experiences and impressions of Bhutan. It was
gratifying to realize that many of our opinions and concerns were identical
despite the very big differences in locations, schools and grades.
We divided our time almost exactly equally between attending class 2 lessons with Andrea and assisting wherever possible and hanging out with Bob and the boys playing, reading and exploring.
We divided our time almost exactly equally between attending class 2 lessons with Andrea and assisting wherever possible and hanging out with Bob and the boys playing, reading and exploring.
Without the assistance of Pema Dawa from the River Lodge in
Bumthang, we would certainly still be in Chumey. After several failed attempts
at finding a taxi driver willing to drive the long haul to Trashigang in one
day, Pema came to the rescue and arranged the deal for us.
Stage 3 Chumey to
Tashigang: Chumey to Trashigang 85kms as the crow flies, about 300kms on
the road and 10 hours.
Driver
# 3 was a careful driver and a true gentleman, who arrived promptly, and
focused all his attention on the road and kept up a steady safe pace for the
entire journey. He had good reason be so attentive because as the day
progressed he drove through glaring sun just after dawn, thick blinding fog and
the clouds as we climbed higher and higher, torrential rain, washed out roads, mud,
landslides blocking the road and then clear blue skies and burning heat in Mongar
and T/gang.
I
had forgotten how dramatically the landscape changes as you venture farther
east but this trip was perfect, slowly revealing the changes.
There
is something about the east of Bhutan. As you drive out of Bumthang and cross
the river you begin a real adventure. The
regiments of old, tall, ramrod straight trees draped with Old Man's Beard stand
guard over the east's treasures. To pass there is to enter another world where
views give way to vistas. The landscape speaks of time immemorial, of nature
undisturbed where people are tolerated only as long as we take enough care as
any false step could end in disaster. Gravity is unconcerned with what or whom
it attracts. The
sentinel like spruce trees finally give way to broad leaf forests and lush
undergrowth. It seems that if you stood still too long the forest tendrils
would seek you out, wind around you and draw you in to their verdant mass. In
the east the mountains seem higher, the valleys deeper, the sides steeper, the
peaks sharper. The view seems endless with interlocking spurs, shaped by the
power of the rivers over millennia, disappearing into the misty distance.
The
roads in the east cling more precariously to the mountainsides than those in
the west. After passing through Ura and Sengor you descend towards Mongar. As
you travel you see enormous Rhododendron bushes as big as trees and
eventually neem and guava alongside citrus and other fruit trees.
We
stopped briefly for tea just before Thrumsing La and once we reached the
pass we strung up some prayer flags before continuing on our way. I was
thinking of a former student of mine now studying in university and hoping that
these flags flying high in the Himalayas would help her achieve high scores and
excel in her chosen field. These were
for you Shirley Curtis.
A
brief lunch stop in Mongar started with a flurry of messages from BCFers
congregating in Trashigang for a reunion and that heightened our excitement and
anticipation.
Along the way we collected the new Yadi teacher who wanted to join us all in T/gang. But I cannot pass through or even think about Yadi without remembering Scott our dear friend and a member of the 2011 intake just like us. Just as passing through Mongar will always bring 2 other fellow BCfers and nomadic wanderers, Julia and Charly to mind, even though they are now beginning their new adventure in Japan.
Along the way we collected the new Yadi teacher who wanted to join us all in T/gang. But I cannot pass through or even think about Yadi without remembering Scott our dear friend and a member of the 2011 intake just like us. Just as passing through Mongar will always bring 2 other fellow BCfers and nomadic wanderers, Julia and Charly to mind, even though they are now beginning their new adventure in Japan.
The
sight of the golden roof of the Trashigang Dzong marked our arrival back to
where our Bhutan adventure really began over two years ago.
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