Our return to what was our hometown for 2
years began with the very familiar journey from Trashigang to Rangjung. Every
bend, stand of towering prayer flags, village, chorten and sheer drop on that
road is burned into our memories and I found myself grinning from ear to ear
the whole way.
The driver, who we recognized and
contracted to take us drove down the main street calling out the window “Lopen”
- the Dzongkha word for teachers and the traders and old friends in the many
general stores responded by waving and grinning as much as us.
As soon as we had deposited our luggage in
the guesthouse I donned my kira to walk back down to school. After enjoying
cool and sunny conditions across most of the country, the humidity and heat of
Rangjung was a shock and I was bathed in sweat by the time we entered the
school gates. As luck would have it we arrived in the middle of the lunch break
so it was perfect timing, allowing us to speak to students without impacting on
their classes. The school grounds now contain a newly consecrated chorten and a
half completed clock tower commemorating 100 years of education in Bhutan but
little else had changed.
Bush telegraph ensured that students were
instantly aware of our presence and they appeared from every direction, to
greet us or to simply stand and stare. My original home class came running and within
no time 12 of the 13 XC students who qualified for class XI studies, were
standing before me. They couldn’t quite believe that I had kept that final
promise that I would return and I could hardly comprehend it myself. We were
all thrilled to be back in each other’s company. It took me a while to realize
that there were only boys in the rapidly expanding crowd of former students. Then
2012’s female class captain now school counselor was immediately summoned and
the XC group was complete. Questions flowed and conversations about the current
locations of other classmates and the achievements and events of the last 9
months were shared. When classes began we had already established that I would
return for each lunch break and after school for the next few days to maximize
our time together.
Our colleagues and the community were
equally welcoming, inviting us for tea, and enquiring about experiences since
leaving and expressing their desire for us to return to Rangjung to teach
again. Word was out that we had reapplied to teach in Bhutan and over the next
few days we repeatedly tried to explain that we have no say in our possible
placement for 2014 but to no avail.
We alternated visiting each of our schools
in the mornings and afternoons and the time spent in the lower secondary school
was no less intense. Students rushed up shouting, “Sir is back, Sir,” and “Sir is teaching us English, Sir?” as we
entered the school grounds. Some children approached shyly and stood mouths
gaping in awe, while others confidently resumed conversations as though we had
been chatting just a few moments earlier. We attended a few classes and Ian
addressed the morning assembly, in addition to answering the many questions
enquiring little minds proposed. On our
final day in Rangjung one pair of vivacious twins with whom we had frequently
interacted, informed us that they had visited our house the previous evening.
They were perplexed that we no longer resided there. In their minds everything
had obviously returned to 9 months ago when we left.
The reunions and casual catch ups continued
over the 3 days we were in town and it was an absolute delight to be on
familiar territory and to be welcomed back so warmly. In fact we took to taking
the back streets between our schools for fear of offending people by refusing
their hospitality. There is in fact a limit to the number of mango juices, cups
of tea and momos, 2 people can consume. The overwhelming number of invitations
we received from colleagues and friends immediately allayed our initial
concerns about the guesthouse not providing meals. In fact it felt odd to be treated as
celebrities when we had once been ordinary members of this Rangjung community.
The only non-school activity we engaged in
was to hike up to an old chorten we long ago named Joyce’s Chorten, in the
relative cool of the early morning. We had promised ourselves we would return
to that much loved and tranquil place and once again hang a string of prayer
flags there and that is exactly what we did.
Before arriving, news had reached us about our good friend, local guide, horse trader and taxi driver, Lobzang. He had acquired a new, secondhand vehicle and was eager to take us for at least part of the return journey. Perfect! We said our goodbyes with light hearts thinking we will be back in the Land of the Thunder Dragon again soon and it will once again be possible to visit dear friends and former students and colleagues.
What a privilege to return. I dream of being able to return one day. I can feel the excitement and wonder of your experience.
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ReplyDeleteYes Andrea it was our main motivation to return to meet students but even so I didn't think I would feel so totally joyous when it really happened. What a bond we all have to this place, these students and their futures
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