After
several months of anticipation, we returned to Bhutan three days ago. Someone
told, me it would feel like coming home and I didn’t quite believe but it I do
now.
It
is funny how your perspective changes. When we arrived in Thimphu for the first
time in January 2011, I thought it was charming and so nice that there was a
traditional feel about the city itself. Circled by mountains, often with fog
and mist hovering in the background and open and friendly in every respect.
Cars stop for pedestrians and people smile and assist not just tourists but
each other. It was not just that so many people, old and young alike were wearing
traditional clothes and that it was evident they were proud of their culture.
There was something intangible that made it feel warts and all a place that had
got its values in the right place. Yes
the litter, the howling packs of dogs and the make a buck quick mentality were
there too but the capital seemed to be moving forward with a sense of place and
civic pride.
At
the time I returned from a year of living in the “far east” my impression was
completely different. I was wowed by the prospect of the choices available at
dinner: pizza, burgers, chips, real coffee and other such little luxuries
unavailable for so long but I was also disappointed. Those concrete copies of
traditional structures with all their beautiful art work just can’t compare to
the 100-year old wood, stone and rammed earth or mud brick authentic versions in the
country side, villages and towns. Those arrogant youth with their low slung
jeans and loud aggression on the streets at night were a shock after the more
respectful, albeit fashion conscious youth of the east. The rampant development
of the suburbs and the many more cars, taxis and public buses adding to the
noise and chaos of a city growing too fast were unwelcome. We had been told it
would feel like New York after so long in the ‘bush’ but no this was not the
big apple.
Those
impressions basically repeated themselves in 2012. We had left for the winter break and the
high-rise, glass and bright lights of Bangkok and other Asian adventures
brought home that Thimphu had got a lot of it right. It was still small,
accessible, friendly and had a unique Bhutanese flavor. But by the time we were
bidding goodbye to the Land of the Thunder Dragon at the end of that year, we
had come full circle again. Love the pizza, but who under 18 and not at school,
wears traditional dress anymore? Development was rearing its ugly head in all
kinds of unlikely places. Don’t get me wrong a convenient modern lifestyle is
definitely worth having. Road access, running water, sewerage, electricity who
doesn’t deserve them? But was this really considered progress or run away
development at any cost?
When
we arrived this time I felt immediately at home. Eyes wide at the vistas we
remember so well, smiling broadly at those ubiquitous prayer flags flapping, and
hearts warmed by the fields of rural splendor on the drive from the airport to
the capital. We couldn’t stop grinning while walking around familiar old haunts
on our first afternoon here and yet again millions of smiles and instant
assistance even when you hadn’t realized that was what you needed, greeted us.
In a city this size it is still possible to be walking along and someone to
stop their car in the middle of the road to say hi and not only not cause a
traffic jam, a chorus of honking horns or even a shout from the other road
users but to have to be reminded that they should possibly keep driving and we
will catch up again later. This is exactly what happened to us not 2 hours
after hitting the streets for the first exploration.
I
am in love with this country and have no right to comment on Thimphu’s progress
or anything else for that matter. I have lost count of the number of times an
observation in America, Australia, Thailand, Tanzania, Myanmar or Laos has
begun with, “But in Bhutan…” in the months since we left. So go right head
Bhutan teach me a few more lessons on how to get life into perspective and retain
what’s worth having and reject what you don’t consider suitable. I’ve still got
a lot to learn and hopefully a lot to give too.
You sound so positive about being back - with a lot of perspective now. It will be interesting to see how you feel as you travel closer to your 'home' out east.
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