Cusco is one of
those quaint little places, where the charm of cobblestone streets and ancient
architecture attract huge numbers of tourists.
The historic quarter and centre of the town is where the action takes place. There is a bustling new sector too but it is the old plazas and alleys, the cathedrals and basilicas and the markets and street life of the city where the fascination lies.
The historic quarter and centre of the town is where the action takes place. There is a bustling new sector too but it is the old plazas and alleys, the cathedrals and basilicas and the markets and street life of the city where the fascination lies.
Yes it has vast
numbers of hawkers and vendors touting their services in the streets and plazas
and beckoning tourists to partake in any number of unlikely or luxury
activities, but this what happens when places become tourist havens. I actually
like the way this sudden popularity creates innovative and original enterprises,
albeit enterprises that are quickly replicated. Cusco is no exception and each
person can chose to engage in whatever of it is to their own taste.
There is no point in
complaining about the crowds because we are only part of the crowd too from the
perspective of others. It is the vast numbers of visitors, which give rise to
boutiques, coffee culture, city tour buses, spas, massages, purveyors of spiritual
guidance and sacred visions, laundry services, guiding, physically challenging
outdoor adventures and cafes, bakeries and restaurants, catering to every
conceivable desire or dietary need.
While the roasted guinea pig isn’t to my taste, the world-class vegan offerings wouldn't be possible without the enormous numbers of travellers who frequent this town. I have the same abhorrence for zip lining upside down hanging from my ankles across a valley or bunging jumping, but others are welcome to it. Give me a Sunday market, with vibrantly dressed locals, a whole new range of vegetables, beans and fruit I have never tasted and the new culinary creations such local produce inspires and I am more than happily engaged.
While the roasted guinea pig isn’t to my taste, the world-class vegan offerings wouldn't be possible without the enormous numbers of travellers who frequent this town. I have the same abhorrence for zip lining upside down hanging from my ankles across a valley or bunging jumping, but others are welcome to it. Give me a Sunday market, with vibrantly dressed locals, a whole new range of vegetables, beans and fruit I have never tasted and the new culinary creations such local produce inspires and I am more than happily engaged.
We were attracted to
Chinchero and Pisac for their markets and these day trips could easily have
been made into longer stays once we became aware of the facilities and
potential for hiking and birding in these towns. We ventured only a short
distance from the market place in each location but were able to sight
hummingbirds, kestrels, and very active birdlife. Having chosen to travel by
car, sharing a picnic lunch with the driver at viewpoints with spectacular
views overlooking the Andes and valleys was also an experience we thoroughly
enjoyed.
Even a simple picnic of market fare was well received and once again I realised the power of food to cross cultural and language barriers to make a connection.
Even a simple picnic of market fare was well received and once again I realised the power of food to cross cultural and language barriers to make a connection.
Nonetheless we were delighted to return to the
comparative extravagance and luxury of Cusco at the end of each day. We have
seen a variety of street performances, public protest over corruption and
religious parades, most notably culminating in the Plaza de Armas. At different
times of the day it is disconcertingly filled with police, many of whom belong
to the riot squad and are armed with shields and riot control equipment. Brass
bands play and costumed participants carry enormous crosses through the streets
on various days of the week, not only Sunday and the congregations follow or
proceed tossing rose petals before the bearers. I do not claim to understand
the significance of such events but the spectacle and true devotion of the
locals is very evident.
As the jumping of
point to Machu Picchu it must attract more travellers than anywhere else in
Peru. There is however so much more to the region than that one ancient site
albeit the biggest draw card. It was certainly what drew us to Cusco but it was
to Cusco we willingly returned and even felt gratified that our stay had to be
extended when the bus tickets we wanted were not available for several more days
due to the May Day / Labor Day public holiday.
Nothing could
prepare you for the breathtaking beauty of the Machu Picchu site and I will not
attempt to describe it or its majesty. However,
when we left, we decided to return to Agua Caliente on foot despite having
prep-purchased bus tickets, because we wanted to savour the experience and the
natural environment of the area. The
revelation of the day for me was the humble realization of how small we are as
individuals but how mighty our achievements can be in universal terms. It was a magical day and gratifyingly so when
that was exactly what inspired us to come to Peru in the first place. It is
without a doubt the main objective of most of the travellers in the region and there
are many more who still aspire to make the journey too.
We were instantly
taken with the quaint atmosphere and old world charm of Cusco and it permeates
the entire region. The longer we have stayed the more it has grown. The
practicalities of the steep uphill climbs and winding cobblestone streets and
alleys, which accommodate both pedestrians and vehicles, present a daily
challenge but no-one would trade that atmosphere for convenience and safety,
would they?
