KAMPOT REVISITED

It’s always a joy to take the train to Kampot. The experience is reminiscent of a bygone era. We always hope for the non aircon carriage just so we can open the windows and take photos but it doesn’t always work that way. 

After exiting the city through humble dwellings perched precariously close to the tracks and seeing a perspective of inner city life we would otherwise not be privy to, the vistas expand into extensive lotus ponds and at this time of year after the monsoon rains they were full to bursting with lotus in full bloom, a proliferation of newly emerging buds and dense leaf coverage. 

The visual then expands into back view the factories, old temples, dirt tracks and tiny villages and vast expanses of lush green rice paddies some of which are almost ready for harvesting now. There is one stretch of the track that we find spectacular. With a back drop of mountains and ponds and paddies bordered with coconut and sugar palms and plenty of birds skimming the water or wading in it or perching on overhead wires, it seems nothing has changed for a millennium or two. 

Within four hours you have arrived in Kampot station and are surrounded by two to three times the number of willing tuk tuk drivers for the meagre number of passengers disembarking. 

A quick spin downtown in your selected vehicle or in our case the tenacious individual who herded us away and seemed to talk non stop without drawing breath for the entire ride. 

Time to hit the streets and revisit old favourite hang outs, make new discoveries and catch up with old mates while enjoying the company of those who have accompanied you on this little jaunt. 

We indulged ourselves with a short stay in a hotel we have long loved for its friendly staff and sumptuous meals but never before stayed in. If you haven’t already let me encourage you to choose The Old Cinema Hotel. I can’t recommend it highly enough. It’s affordable and yet luxurious with an old world charm oozing from the art deco decor. 

The staff are friendly and attentive without being overbearing or pushy. The attention to detail in drink and food service is incredible and the menu extensive enough to satisfy even fussy eaters with dietary restrictions and preferences like our small gathering. We loved the Gin Club and other cocktails and the share platters of food, but there is a lot more on offer as well. 

Kampot abounds in quirky little cafés, shopping outlets and fascinating architecture - old, dilapidated, restored, renovated, repurposed and new. Take a stroll through the backstreets and enjoy the juxtapositions and jumble of styles of it all. It’s quiet and calm while still having an upbeat ‘happening place’ vibe about it. Old Market street offers some of the best and worst of Cambodian and Barang style hospitality but there is a lot more to K/pot than that one street. It has pockets of true Khmer culture and a young bohemian counter culture and everything in between coexisting happily together.

 

No it’s not paradise. There are issues and development and conflicts and challenges but if you can’t find something that truly fascinates or delights you then you simply can’t be trying. Without a doubt we will be back. Truth be told we already have another booking to return. We have never failed to make new discoveries and still relish revisiting old favourites. Somehow it also never seems possible to leave without making a purchase or two either but how could you call yourself a tourist or traveller if you didn’t support the local businesses? 

And for one final plug if you are vain enough to need a 
particular hairstyle you can’t beat Mony Saloon anywhere in the Kingdom of Wonder. So there it is in a nutshell if you haven’t yet visited The Pot do yourself a favour.

Revisiting Trashiyangtse

What a joy it has been revisiting Trashiyangtse. 

The road there was treacherous with hardly any visible blacktop, dense cloud cover, evidence of landslides and rain assisting the runoff over the steep sided edges with almost no barriers. Had it not been Lobzang behind the wheel I think I might have abandoned the trip. He however inspired confidence and got us there within the time frame he estimated without the slightest sign of being stressed by the conditions. 

The rain that seemed endless as we drove in eased and by the time we had done some washing, it had almost stopped. 
We had heard of the desperate need of the farmers for rain so we were both actually glad the monsoon had arrived. 

We found ourselves wandering at large and marveling at how little had changed and even shrouded in clouds and in drizzling rain how spectacularly beautiful the backdrop of the mountains is. The preservation of the traditional buildings and complete lack of development is refreshing to us and makes us feel like we are back in the Bhutan we so fondly remember. The heartland of Bhutanese culture is alive and well. 

We beelined to Chorten Kora and joined the elderly in the spinning of prayer wheels and circumambulating and have returned everyday to do the same. Even early this morning we ventured there and were able to light butter lamps in addition to circumambulating before breakfast. 

It is impossible not to notice the innocence, enthusiasm and curiosity of the students.  Beyond the usual calls of hello hello or bye from toddlers, most students are shy and only a few primary students are bold enough to greet us in the street. 

Having so recently been in the system ourselves, we can ask them relevant questions and their faces light up at just being able to converse with a native speaker. Once engaged they are surprisingly good at sustaining a conversation even though the complete lack of a filter sometimes takes us by surprise and makes me laugh out loud. ‘I can give you a hug’, ‘ Are you a boy or a girl?’,  ‘Where are you going?’ and most often ‘Whats-your-name?’ : spoken as a single word, have all been shouted at us by local primary students still in school uniform. I’m delighted that they are trying to use their English and try to encourage their efforts. 

We have been more than content to just stroll about and observe the local community. Visiting the post office and the bank made us painfully aware of how few tourists reach these regions.

 Dropping in on the College for Zorig Chusum (the 13 traditional arts and crafts) had me wondering why there were so few students present. The showroom and shop was closed which was a bit of a disappointment but it prompted us to return earlier the next day hoping to see more classes in action. It’s a short but pleasant walk out of town and since the sun was out it was also most enjoyable even the second time. The mystery was solved by an instructor telling us most of the students were on “OJT”. Oh how the Bhutanese love an acronym so  we had to inquire: on the job training. 

I don’t want to be a celebrity or a novelty but when you are the only “chillips” in town it’s hard not to be. The elderly, students, shopkeepers and children of all ages were friendly and curious and most welcoming wherever we were when they encountered us. 

Having located an eatery that prepares fresh, authentic Bhutanese dishes from scratch when ordered just hours after arriving, we returned there for almost every meal and were rewarded with hospitality, generosity and friendship. I can say without a doubt we had the best ema datshi I have ever eaten right there and it was not diluted to suit the palate of foreign guests either. My eyes were watering, my nose was running and my lips were tingling but I’m still glad I ate it. Ian of course was in his element. 

That experience made me realise that the hype I’ve heard about Trashiyantse chillies being the best in the kingdom, isn’t hype. It’s true. 

Now we have tracked down and sourced some of those chillies to gift Bhutanese friends and we purchased them just hours after they were picked (not plucked as locals do like to say) too. Even after several shop keepers told us they wouldn’t be available until
next week or next month, we persisted on our mission and were handsomely rewarded by a local store who called around and then got them delivered the next morning. Now that’s service for you! 

Lobzang wasn’t available to collect us for the short run back to Trashigang but would have made a special effort if we hadn’t been able to contract a local driver. However that was easily achieved.

With 36 hours of dry conditions and having contracted a Bolero we were confident that it would be an easy run. 

It was in fact, delightful with blue skies, sunshine and spectacular views all the way.

 

The driver was more than happy to stop so we could take photos and even consented to waiting while we quickly visited Gom Kora. It is truly a special place and we had a magical moment or two with locals there.  

No wonder we think Trashi Yangtse is a gem and always worth returning to

oNe PhOtO a DaY JuNe 2023:

JUNE 1st A SINGLE FLOWER: A frangipani flower resting on a palm frond in the bustling inner-city zone. I spotted it returning home from our early morning walk today and decided to take it home for the small altar in our entrance

 

JUNE 2nd YOUR FAVOURITE BOOK: I don’t really have a favourite but I can certainly say this is the book I have bought the most copies of in my life. It holds a special place in my heart as a result of the years I spent living in Hiroshima city. I have gifted it to children, left class sets in Tanzania, and copies in three school libraries in Bhutan and taught countless children and teenagers to fold paper cranes

 

JUNE 3rd EMPTY PARK BENCH: Not one but two very unusual, concrete, empty benches in a shady courtyard. I spotted them yesterday, in the late afternoon when the cool breeze brings people outdoors. At that time there are very rarely empty benches as the demand usually outweighs the supply in downtown Phnom Penh

JUNE 4th PATTERNS IN NATURE: The beautiful lace-like pattern in this fallen leaf caught my attention strolling home yesterday. Even the destruction of insects leaves behind a pattern of intricate beauty

 

JUNE 5th CHILDHOOD TOYS: This is the gift I selected and bought to send to a friend in Chile who has just recently had her first child. I thought it was perfect for an Aussie living in Cambodia. Syd the Sleepy Koala made by Beebee + Bongo a social enterprise teaching knitting and crocheting skills to provide fair and flexible employment to marginalised communities in and near Phnom Penh. A childhood toy embracing two of the cultures we love

 

JUNE 6th CLOUD FORMATIONS: The dark, dramatic, gloomy cloud formations of the monsoon season roll in mid to late afternoon in Phnom Penh and the often-torrential rain that follows is a relief from the heat and clears the air and dusty streets

 

JUNE 7th DOORWAY OR ENTRANCE: A new business in our neighbourhood has recently painted their entrance with this Khmer warrior image. I believe it’s a restaurant but it wasn’t open yet when we strolled by and I snapped this shot

*Just for the record we now know its a Spa

 

JUNE 8th REFLECTIONS IN WATER: Walking along riverside this morning a puddle provided the only reflection visible as the river was mostly rippling with the current in the overcast conditions or dappled by the drizzle. The monsoon moods continue but the break from the sweltering heat and intense sunshine is a relief

JUNE 9th VINTAGE OBJECTS: abound and are still very much in everyday use here. I love the basketry which is still handmade and readily available. We saw this mobile vendor early this morning near the market and I was delighted to realise that there are at least three of his wares in regular use in our home

JUNE 10th FRUITS & VEGETABLES: A sample of the fruits and vegetables we have in stock to see us through the weekend and well beyond considering today is a celebratory occasion and we are going on a date night

 

JUNE 11th EVERYDAY OBJECTS IN BLACK AND WHITE: A selection of the books set in this region from our shelves. I read every day and consider it a pleasure and a privilege to have the time for it

JUNE 12th A LONE TREE: flowering on the corner of our street and providing much sought after shade in this busy downtown zone

JUNE 13th ABSTRACT CLOSE-UP: taken inside our apartment and such a surprise that it looked like this close up. You’ll never guess what it is?

 

JUNE 14th A FOOD DISH OR MEAL: Tonight’s dinner is build your own Buddha Bowls with a base of chilled soba noodles, a rainbow platter of vegetables and a sesame, coconut peanut sauce. An Asian fusion dish I love to make and eat

*This one was selected for the fab grid on Instagram

 

JUNE 15th MORNING COFFEE: The plans to have a morning coffee in a new to us venue this morning, have gone by the wayside, while we wait for our Mt Fix-it to resolve a plumbing issue. The usual spot on the terrace with breakfast is the regular morning coffee routine and now the monthly selfie, albeit a sleepy face selfie, is done too. I’m never awake until the first cup of coffee is consumed and here is the evidence

 

JUNE 16th A PET SUCH AS DOG OR CAT: A pampered pet traveling in style on the streets of Phnom Penh

JUNE 17th STAIRS OR ESCALATORS: The alleys and laneways of Phnom Penh reveal the stairs that provide access to the maze and labyrinth of tiny, old apartments that are concealed behind the modern, street side shopfronts. It’s a world from a bygone era and a community we are happy to reside within

 

JUNE 18th FOOD INGREDIENTS: All that’s required to make my signature dish - Lotus Root Salad

 

JUNE 19th LAUNDRY HANGING TO DRY: inside Wat Ounalom compound is all orange monk robes and they are draped anywhere space allows

 

JUNE 20th GRAFFITI-COVERED WALLS: Here in PP some alleys are bustling with community activity, others are picturesque nostalgia of a bygone era and well… some are simply graffiti covered walls and strewn with garbage but all of them provide access to residences. The laneways and alleys absolutely fascinate me

*this one also got selected for the fab collection on Insta 

JUNE 21st BIRDS IN FLIGHT: One of my favourite wall art discoveries, which is more treasured than ever now that the wall has been painted over and a bar and beer advertisement have replaced it. It’s somehow poignant and haunting due to the expression on the character’s face. Both the birds in flight and the person seem to be trying to escape…… but what?

JUNE 22nd A SINGLE CANDLE: in a ceramic container on the bedside table in the guest room

JUNE 23rd A COLOURFUL DOOR: In the art gallery we popped into yesterday this very colourful door led to the office area. Today has been spent on a bus heading to HCMC and now after checking in at the hotel and a long walk searching for doors it’s beer o’clock and time to holiday

 

JUNE 24th SUNRISE OR SUNSET: Not being a morning person, I knew it would be a sunset for me. Sunset view in HCMC yesterday while people watching. Vietnam is synonymous with motor scooter culture as is Cambodia but the orderliness of the traffic here was a change and surprise

 

JUNE 25th ARCHWAY OR BRIDGE: The back courtyard exit from the Fine Arts Museum in Ho Ch Minh City. The museum itself is a spectacular colonial building and it houses a huge collection by mostly Vietnamese artists and was well worth a second visit

JUNE 26th A STATUE OR MONUMENT: Yesterday’s visit to the Fine Arts Museum provided this statue entitled “opposing the enemy.”

*NB: eight hours on a bus and arriving in the dark in Da Lat made me grateful I had taken this yesterday

JUNE 27th CAR OR TRUCK IN THE STREET: Sitting in a cafe by the Hô Xuân Phong, which I assume is the name of the lake, it seemed fitting that a water truck should idle by and surprising that the passenger even noticed I was taking a shot and smiled and gave me a peace sign. I’ve only heard “Good morning Vietnam” once so far this trip when it was once a thousand times a day

 

JUNE 28th FRESHLY BAKED GOODS: Anyone who has visited Vietnam has enjoyed Banh Mi and it’s freshly baked bread like this that makes it possible to make those delicious sandwiches a staple for locals and tourists alike. We usually call this “air bread” but when in Rome…..

 

JUNE 29th A STACK OF BOOKS: Having walked in circles using google maps to find a bookstore to no avail this afternoon, all I’ve got is a stack containing our two passports and the information book in our hotel. It’s a bit of a stretch and it saddens my teacher’s heart to think we haven’t seen a single bookstore in the week we have spent in Vietnam. I can only hope we have been looking in all the wrong places

JUNE 30th A BUILDING WITH INTERESTING WINDOWS:  I knew we would be on a bus for most of today, so I have a building with interesting, fretwork covered windows surrounding the door in a semicircle. We stumbled upon this yesterday in our wanderings around Da Lat and the weather worn wooden frames and door also appealed to me

*Post posting update: This one made the Fab Four too! 

 

THE PROMPTS