Right
from the time we got on the bus in the early morning in Ho Chi Min City we knew
that this border crossing was going to be very different from our last land
crossing. I guess to be fair going from one capital city to another should be
trouble free and it certainly was.
The
bus conductor/ attendant/ guide spelled out the whole process in 2 languages as
soon as the bus departed, then collected our passports and fees, filled in the
forms and had them express processed for us at the border. There were trucks,
semi-trailers, articulated transports with containers and all manner of freight
as well as empty vehicles lining the road between the 2 countries. In that
no-mans-land where you are already stamped out but not yet stamped in but our
bus simply slid through the middle of the parked vehicles and deposited us
right outside the checkpoint door on the Cambodian side. Our personal assistant
called our names, as the procedure was complete and we simply walked through
the check station with everything perfectly in order. A busload of 40+ passengers
and 6 or 7 nationalities was done and dusted in less than 30 minutes. Now that
is efficiency.
‘Nice
start to the Cambodia chapter,’ thought I. The dusty road and auto-workshops
that dotted the side of the road on both sides of the border gave way to rice
paddies after the first 30 minutes and soon we were zooming through the usual
mish mash of traffic on a surprisingly good road.
Having
been in Siem Reap- Angkor Wat before we felt pretty comfortable about knowing how
things work in Cambodia but Phnom Penh has a completely different atmosphere to
sleepy Siem Reap, so we soon discovered we were in for a totally new adventure.
This
is a sprawling, dusty, developing city with more sophistication and more
diversity that we were expecting. It has its river view area with cafes,
charity based handicraft shops and boutique outlets as well as a thriving
market zone and embassy, NGO and ritzy precincts. Hives of local activity give
way to construction without warning and palaces, temples, monuments and
colonial relics abound.
Things
began in a pretty sobering way. While I was happy not to spend too much time on
the many war related sights in Vietnam, having lived that experience as the
“Television War” I felt we had a pretty sound understanding of the history and
the facts, which was supplemented by the reading we did as we travelled, the
same cannot be said for Cambodia’s recent history. Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge is
a totally different thing. For me at least I feel it was the secret war. Not
until it was over did the world really know and I feel that even now I don’t
know much and cannot really comprehend it.
For
this reason I thought that the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum(aka Office S.21) and
The Choeung Ek Genocide Centre (aka The Killing Fields) were essential sights.
There is something chilling about just being in these places. As the stories
and testimonials unfold it is impossible not to reflect on what motivated it
and what it hoped to achieve. At some point I was confronted with the knowledge
of what was going on in my life at the time these atrocities were being
perpetrated. How guilty one begins to feel about being unscathed. I still have
no answer to the “why” but I have a lot more information.
In
silence hundreds of people walk through these places each day and solemn
introspection is the norm. This is not
the wow factor of Angkor, this is serious. Compelling and horrific at the same
time, one somehow feels the need to put oneself through it. I think I would
have felt I had not done Phnom Penh justice if I had not gone but at the same
time it feels ghoulish to even be there. I have again embarked on a program of
reading biographies that I hope will extend my understanding and maybe even
answer some of the questions that still remain.
Just
to add to this very somber note, a friend who we met for lunch here on the
first day was attacked and robbed by 5 youths on the walk back to her hotel
that night. It can happen anywhere but we are now even more cautious and a lot
more wary. Whilst we do not suspect everyone we need to be vigilant and keep
our wits about us on the streets and in Tuk Tuks and other transport.
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