What a joy it has been revisiting Trashiyangtse.
The road there was treacherous with hardly any visible blacktop, dense cloud cover, evidence of landslides and rain assisting the runoff over the steep sided edges with almost no barriers. Had it not been Lobzang behind the wheel I think I might have abandoned the trip. He however inspired confidence and got us there within the time frame he estimated without the slightest sign of being stressed by the conditions.
The rain that seemed endless as we drove in eased and by the time we had done some washing, it had almost stopped.
We had heard of the desperate need of the farmers for rain so we were both actually glad the monsoon had arrived.
We had heard of the desperate need of the farmers for rain so we were both actually glad the monsoon had arrived.
We found ourselves wandering at large and marveling at how little had changed and even shrouded in clouds and in drizzling rain how spectacularly beautiful the backdrop of the mountains is. The preservation of the traditional buildings and complete lack of development is refreshing to us and makes us feel like we are back in the Bhutan we so fondly remember. The heartland of Bhutanese culture is alive and well.
We beelined to Chorten Kora and joined the elderly in the spinning of prayer wheels and circumambulating and have returned everyday to do the same. Even early this morning we ventured there and were able to light butter lamps in addition to circumambulating before breakfast.
It is impossible not to notice the innocence, enthusiasm and curiosity of the students. Beyond the usual calls of hello hello or bye from toddlers, most students are shy and only a few primary students are bold enough to greet us in the street.
Having so recently been in the system ourselves, we can ask them relevant questions and their faces light up at just being able to converse with a native speaker. Once engaged they are surprisingly good at sustaining a conversation even though the complete lack of a filter sometimes takes us by surprise and makes me laugh out loud. ‘I can give you a hug’, ‘ Are you a boy or a girl?’, ‘Where are you going?’ and most often ‘Whats-your-name?’ : spoken as a single word, have all been shouted at us by local primary students still in school uniform. I’m delighted that they are trying to use their English and try to encourage their efforts.
We have been more than content to just stroll about and observe the local community. Visiting the post office and the bank made us painfully aware of how few tourists reach these regions.
Dropping in on the College for Zorig Chusum (the 13 traditional arts and crafts) had me wondering why there were so few students present. The showroom and shop was closed which was a bit of a disappointment but it prompted us to return earlier the next day hoping to see more classes in action. It’s a short but pleasant walk out of town and since the sun was out it was also most enjoyable even the second time. The mystery was solved by an instructor telling us most of the students were on “OJT”. Oh how the Bhutanese love an acronym so we had to inquire: on the job training.
I don’t want to be a celebrity or a novelty but when you are the only “chillips” in town it’s hard not to be. The elderly, students, shopkeepers and children of all ages were friendly and curious and most welcoming wherever we were when they encountered us.
Having located an eatery that prepares fresh, authentic Bhutanese dishes from scratch when ordered just hours after arriving, we returned there for almost every meal and were rewarded with hospitality, generosity and friendship. I can say without a doubt we had the best ema datshi I have ever eaten right there and it was not diluted to suit the palate of foreign guests either. My eyes were watering, my nose was running and my lips were tingling but I’m still glad I ate it. Ian of course was in his element.
next week or next month, we persisted on our mission and were handsomely rewarded by a local store who called around and then got them delivered the next morning. Now that’s service for you!
Lobzang wasn’t available to collect us for the short run back to Trashigang but would have made a special effort if we hadn’t been able to contract a local driver. However that was easily achieved.
With 36 hours of dry conditions and having contracted a Bolero we were confident that it would be an easy run.
It was in fact, delightful with blue skies, sunshine and spectacular views all the way.
The driver was more than happy to stop so we could take photos and even consented to waiting while we quickly visited Gom Kora. It is truly a special place and we had a magical moment or two with locals there.
No wonder we think Trashi Yangtse is a gem and always worth returning to
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