Even more than
the blaring horns and screaming sirens of New York, Lima is loud. For years I
have discounted the noise factor in Asia by remembering the Rudyard Kipling
quote, "With Asian indifference to mere noise." Although it doesn't
apply to either Japan or Bhutan, almost all the rest of Asia can be deafening.
Then New York surprised me with the fact that even on the 14th floor you can't
continue a conversation when emergency vehicles are in the vicinity. Now that's
loud!
BUT downtown
Lima is like living inside the battle of the sounds zone: traffic, music from
car stereos, loud conversations, music from cafes and restaurants, megaphones,
whistles, music from unknown sources and constant horn blasts compete to
drown each other out and most continue to 2 or 3 in the morning and start up
again at about 8am. Auditory overload is new to me and it's impossible to
meditate.
Unlike the
developed world where we have spent most of our time since leaving Bhutan, Peru
immediately comes across as life on the edge. The cars are old or beaten up or
both. In the capital the traffic is at dead stop or like a car chase. The
stunning beaux-arte buildings are restored to their former glory or mere
facades gutted and used as car parks or decaying and so dilapidated that they
pose a threat to public safety.
Street vendors
some with only a few items clutched in plastic bags sell snacks, hand squeezed
fruit juices, batteries, pens, garbage bags, paper products, key rings, cigarettes,
bling, drinks, and a million other things. Baskets of odd items are toted about
and a game of cat and mice is played by those without appropriate permits, to
avoid the police. Unfortunately children also join the ranks of street sellers
mostly after dark and sometimes still in school uniforms. All this reminds me
of an Asian scene from decades ago.
The cuisine has
been surprisingly good, if somewhat a game of lucky dip with our lack of
Spanish leaving us at the mercy of whatever the waiter decides after our
plaintive cries “vegetarianio” or pointing at dishes other customers are
eating. Nonetheless people come to rescue and everyone tries to make it work.
We were expecting lots of beans and rice but there is oh so much more on offer
and an incredible array of desserts, cakes and baked goods. Though, we are
rarely tempted by sweet dishes, we have definitely eaten more desserts in the
last 4 days than the previous four months.
The spectacle
of the changing of the guards at the Presidential Palace was reminiscent of a
bygone era. With a full brass band playing and marching the compound while vast
numbers of the guards were goose-stepping and parading with flags, swords and
batons. It involved a great deal of pomp and ceremony. I thoroughly enjoyed the
performance and was somewhat taken back by the young girl inside the palace
taking selfies and watching through the open doors. The president’s daughter
perhaps?
You get the
feeling Lima is alive. It's kicking, struggling, and fighting but surviving and
loudly. Few people appear wealthy and there appears to be a vast middle class,
who is comfortably well off and enjoying life. Too many of those visible on the
streets are poor beyond belief but they are not begging. They are doing
whatever they can to get by and much of it right on the crowded
pavements.
Modern shopping
malls, fast food super chains and the latest electronics also abound but to me
they haven't taken over the culture they have just joined the chaos of it all.
Peru has begun with a bang and Lima may not be indicative of what is to follow
but I can't wait to see more of the rural areas beyond the capital.
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