A
series of serendipitous events led to us being invited to teach English to the
little monks who reside in a monastery near a fishing village in Kep. We met
Yary by chance in Phnom Penh and expressed a desire to volunteer teach since we
have years of experience in that exact area. She not only listened and then
discovered a “pagoda” in desperate need of her financial support but also
remembered. It was immediately before Pchum Ben and we were promptly invited to
the pagoda to meet the monks the following day. We agreed immediately without
even being sure where the “pagoda” was, how many monks were involved or how old
they were.
I
admit to being both surprised and shocked the first time we went there. The
term pagoda for me summons up towers of religious significance such as I have
seen in Thailand, China and Japan. However we arrived at what could best be
described as a collection of ramshackle huts and a large open area with tiled
floor and a galvanized iron roof. The stickler in me refuses to refer to this
as a pagoda unless giving directions to a local. It is in fact a monastery
however. There is a collection of young monks, who seem to range from about 10
to 17 years old and they all live on site.
On
the first occasion we saw it, Pchum Ben festivities were in progress. There were buntings flying, flowers and food
in abundance and all the available floor space was occupied by local Khmer
families devotedly listening to the chanting, prayers and oration of the head
monk, whom I believe is called an abbot.
I was embarrassed that at some point proceedings stopped so that we
could be introduced to the abbot, who quickly announced to the crowd that we
would teach English. Yary acted as translator and we soon realised that we had
no common language with any of the monks or the abbot. As soon as the official
ceremony was over the food and beverages supplied by the devoted followers were
served to the monks and an incredible feast was set out before them as they sat
on a raised dais. Devotees were also served and we politely declined and
contemplated the enormity of what we had already agreed to do.
The
space itself was alarmingly unlike any temple or monastery I had ever seen.
Whilst there were statues of Buddha on the entrance path and at an altar there
was no temple at all. Litter was scattered all over the premises and the
gathering was creating more at an alarming rate. An atmosphere of disorder pervaded the place
and we quickly began to assess how to go about the task we had already agreed
to. We set a start date for a month later in order to accumulate resources and
prepare.
Our
second visit to the monastery was via bike along the foreshore past the
mangroves. We went simply to reassure ourselves that we could indeed relocate this
place and that it was possible to commute there by bicycle. On arrival we were
once again surprised to discover Yary there and this time drilling for water.
The pressing problem being that there is no available water supply. This
problem continues to this day. After three attempts to find a water supply and
establish a well at different locations on the property, the task was
abandoned. Instead Yary agreed to sponsor the construction of small bungalows
for the monks to sleep in. She has also supplied food and milk and made other
improvements to the premises but the water issue persists. A new ablutions
block has been erected and more statues have been installed in the months that
have elapsed but our concern has increasingly been for the health and welfare
of the little monks.
With
posters, flash cards, manipulatives and other resources sourced in Phnom Penh
we began the daunting task of trying to teach English. We quickly discovered
that they were keen and in desperate need of both guidance and supervision. Their
enthusiasm fluctuates and their concentration wavers but there is nothing new
there when it comes to teaching young children. Games and hands on activities
usually inspire and engage them.
Although
it is not ideal for us, we conduct classes in the afternoon as the mornings are
occupied with religious commitments. At that time of day they are not allowed
to eat and are often sleepy and distracted. We soon developed a routine, which
has enabled them to learn to recite the alphabet, count and name simple objects
and colours. They can recognise, write or copy letters and we are just
beginning the process of teaching phonetics, which will hopefully enable them
to learn to read, very reasonable progress in my opinion, for a mere three
hours of instruction a week, over a four month period. Each lesson ends with
about 30 minues of playtime, for which we supply puzzles, jump ropes, yoyos and
balls. They are after all young boys, who need to play and exercise and they
have nothing.
We
have had a couple of friends visit us in Kep and they have requested to come
with us to teach the monks. On both occasions we were quick to point out that
it is not a zoo and they are not exhibits. Anyone who comes must pitch in and
sit with them, encourage them and teach and guide them, bringing a small gift
of milk or something would also be beneficial. All of those who have joined us
felt compelled to offer something towards to continuation of this simple
project.
It
has not been without its frustrations. Of the original twelve monks with whom we
started only six remain. The others are now at different monasteries or
somewhere else. We cannot ascertain exactly when only the little monks can
communicate with us and conversation is limited at best. The older monks, who
are in their twenties and who attended at first no longer wish to or perhaps
only did at first to observe us and contain the boys. Nonetheless lessons
continue and the little ones remain committed to learning albeit with the usual
distraction and inattention of young boys.
Some
two months after we began our English classes a Khmer teacher was engaged and
he too now teaches both monks and village children in the late afternoons. We
have resisted including all but two very persistent village boys in our classes
mostly because we already have a wide range of ages and abilities among the
monks, but also due to the fact that they arrived after we had already begun
and would have been too far behind to catch up. We are also unsure of the
correct protocol to include girls with the monks and thought it best to avoid
possible conflicts. They mostly attend village schools and therefore do have at
least some access to education unlike the monks.
We
are now contemplating starting a village girls’ class if another teaching space
can be negotiated. As it is we teach under the roofed area and it is open on
two sides and far from waterproof. With basics like an easel and homemade
blackboard we get by and the boys certainly engage.
From
the onset we noticed how grubby they were and that they often have scrapes,
sores, scratches and skin issues. Maybe they are water related. How can they
keep clean with little or no water on most days and very little guidance and
supervision beyond their religious education? We are currently trying to remedy
this situation and hope it will improve. Today’s visit to the local hospital
for a checkup and hopefully a diagnosis may supply some answers.
With
vows that prevent them from eating after midday it seems that they are almost
always hungry. We occasionally see them in the downtown area of Kep on their
alms walk in the mornings and like most locals cannot resist their adorable
faces. I’m pretty sure we are the only ones who offer croissants and other
delicacies from the French bakery but both food and money is regularly
given.
Although
we took this on as a volunteer teaching situation, it has quickly become a lot
more. We feel the need to supply basic hygiene products and guidance as well as
being adults whom the boys can trust and relate to. Just two days ago when we
went to repair the blackboard after a month long break from teaching over Khmer
New Year, we were greeted so warmly and surrounded by little monks trying their
best to show they remember. Pointing at colours and naming them, reciting the
alphabet and repeatedly saying “24.” That is the date that classes will
recommence. This confirms for me that they really want to learn. We have asked
ourselves “Do they even want to learn English?” several times after leaving the
monastery. Now I am convinced they do!
Yesterday
Yary’s son Gerald talked to us about a project to build an actual temple on the
site via fundraising and donations. The future really is looking brighter for
these little monks.
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