oNe PhOtO a DaY SePtEmBeR 2023:

SEPTEMBER 1st PHOTO FROM OUTSIDE: This morning we hiked to the incredible tree in Kep National Park for a little ’shinrin-yoku’. It used to be clearly visible and sign posted but now the jungle is engulfing it but we were thrilled to see it survived the recent addition of a new concrete road

SEPTEMBER 2nd HAPPINESS IS: visiting the little monks of Kep in the pouring rain and watching the shenanigans they get up to when the Abbot’s away and there is no way to leave the pagoda

*this shot was selected for the fab photos of the day in Facebook 

 

SEPTEMBER 3rd IT’S ME: happy to be back in our old stomping ground and enjoying a vegetarian platter at one of my favourite eateries. No dinner required when lunch looks like that

 

SEPTEMBER 4th SOMETHING BEAUTIFUL: Tamara Venn created this beautiful print featuring hornbills in a highly recognizable Phnom Penh city scape. I saw it in an exhibition yesterday and absolutely loved it and the fact that her work champions the need for environmental and wildlife preservation. I did resist the urge to purchase a copy but I do love it

 

SEPTEMBER 5th THIS IS USEFUL: Stainless steel pegs have a multitude of different household applications and are extremely useful. I bought a couple of packs over a year ago and they never breakdown from the sunlight, rust or snap in half like plastic ones or rot and fall apart like the wooden ones. Today, I finally spotted them again and bought three different sizes and almost half have been deployed already

 

SEPTEMBER 6th FROM DOWN LOW: at the southern entrance to the Central Market when the art deco dome of the original building and the monsoon sky is filtered through the more recently installed security grill, is when it takes on an eerie atmosphere

 

SEPTEMBER 7th FROM UP HIGH: A night lights shot across Phnom Penh from a sky bar recently discovered. I love that since it was taken after a torrential monsoon downpour the air is clear enough to see some stars and I can even identify many of the buildings having lived in downtown PP for over a year now

 

SEPTEMBER 8th HECK YES: Do we love our location, apartment and thriving terrace garden? Heck yes!

 

SEPTEMBER 9th MADE FROM WOOD: This wooden standing Buddha with hands in the Varada Mundra, symbolizes charity and compassion. It was bought after we had signed the contract on our apartment and it now stands in the hatch between the living room and the guest room

SEPTEMBER 10th WHAT I’M WATCHING: Sushil and Ian playing table tennis. For the first time since I shattered my kneecap I get to play, too. Haven’t played in about five years and although we are a bit rusty it is a real delight

 

SEPTEMBER 11th IN THE MIDDLE: of a bustling metropolis these enormous birds not only survive but thrive. It never ceases to amaze me that we see so many of them so often and it speaks volumes for the quality of air and abundance of fruit bearing trees in the city. This afternoon we saw them in three separate locations while out walking

SEPTEMBER 12th CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT: a decent pair of walking shoes. We clock up over five kilometres a day on our feet and having the right shoes, like this newish pair and breaking them in well is essential

 

SEPTEMBER 13th IN NATURE: A bit of a stretch for an inner-city dweller but this orange jasmine flowers prolifically. Since we repotted it, as soon as one batch of flowers fall the new buds start reappearing and we enjoy the scent sitting on our terrace. As a result, I can now identify it in other locations around the city and in nature

 

SEPTEMBER 14th ON MY TABLE: in the entrance are a few little treasures from Bhutan that bring me joy. We both spin the prayer wheel on our way out almost every time we leave

 

SEPTEMBER 15th ENVIRONMENT: Most of the vendors, from whom we purchase in the local market are well aware of our concern for the environment and wait for us to handover cloth bags, or reusable plastic boxes or package fresh herbs in huge lotus leaves. This morning’s fresh herb purchase included parsley, mint, laksa, Thai basil and fish mint

 

SEPTEMBER 16th LAST ONE: There are four flights and ninety stairs that lead to our front door and this is the last one

SEPTEMBER 17th WHOLE: The whole neighbourhood is watching one flat screen TV broadcasting a kick boxing match and betting on the outcome. We could hear their shouts and cheering from a block away as we approached on foot this afternoon

SEPTEMBER 18th A PLACE: we have visited multiple times and it looked resplendent as we strolled by this morning. The National Museum in Phnom Penh holds only a small collection but the grounds and internal courtyard are serene and it is such a calming space

 

SEPTEMBER 19th ON THE FLOOR: are the spectacular circa 1925 floor tiles of the Agence Française de Développement (AFD) building, which opens once a year on Heritage Day. We were lucky enough to have taken part in a guided tour last Saturday

 

SEPTEMBER THIS IS SEASON: for lazy days swimming in the pool as the intense heat makes a return and the monsoon storms begin to lessen and become less frequent

 

SEPTEMBER 21st ICE CREAM: Yes please. There is a new joint in town and well we just had to try it. Will we be back?  You bet!

*This was selected for the Fab Four on Insta

 

SEPTEMBER 22nd PASTA: for dinner tonight. Made with fresh local ingredients acquired in the market this morning. Perfect

SEPTEMBER 23rd BOTTLE: This bottle of chestnut liqueur was gifted to me by a friend who recently returned from a trip to his home in France and I’m actually dying to try it. A special occasion coming up in early October might be my chance. Thanks Remi

 

SEPTEMBER: 24th TRIANGLE: Whenever there is leftover rice at the end of a meal, I turn it into omisubi / onigiri (rice triangles) and somehow, they always disappear off the kitchen counter without me seeing them consumed! Waste not want not

 

SEPTEMBER 25th MESS: In the florist aisle of the central market the scent is divine and even the mess under the cutting and arrangement table has certain aesthetic

SEPTEMBER 26th GROWN: The little propagation zone on the terrace where many of the plants now flourishing on our terrace were first grown

 

SEPTEMBER 27th FAR AWAY: That long last look as Australia and our trip home for the first time in almost five years begins to turn into a memory. Taken earlier this year

 

 SEPTEMBER 28th PLAYGROUND: Packed and ready to go. Who says we are looking forward to playtime at the beach? Even big kids need playtime sometimes

SEPTEMBER 29th MOON: I waited all day and hoped to get the harvest moon tonight but well, it was trapped under cloud cover. However, today is Mid Autumn Festival so here are the moon cakes readily available and  all over the world right now. They are being consumed across Asia tonight. Cultural connection  

SEPTEMBER 30th SMALL: On our morning walk I discovered this small but perfect sea urchin among a crowd of less perfect ones washed in on the tide. I think I need to claim it as a personal treasure for the from the sea collection

THE PROMPTS

ARTITECTURE WALK: A free self-guided walk of some of the notable art and architecture in the riverside district of Phnom Penh.

If like me you are an avid walker and have tried other city walks around the world I sincerely hope you enjoy this one and take the time to provide some feedback on it.

NB:*It's hot and sunny and it is advisable to carry or purchase water and use sun protection.

*If you wish to visit the Royal Palace or any of the temples in this walk, it is worth noting that you will need to dress modestly covering your shoulders and knees.

* Be cautious in the city streets holding phones and other electronic devices and print this if you wish.

 

Start in Street 13 at Tribe and check out the doors on the Spa by Khmer Tonics at ground level. 

 

Remember to view the elephant statue in the lobby of Tribe.

 

Turn left on Street 94 and walk towards Wat Phnom. Remember to look up at the bat tree on the property at the corner before continuing in an anticlockwise direction to the first intersection. Cross the road at the triangle junction to the park on Street 47 opposite the Australian Ambassador’s residence and you will see the peace dove constructed from the components of guns.

 

Retrace your steps to the Wat Phnom roundabout and continue in an anticlockwise direction to reach the main gates of the temple.

 

For a $1 entrance fee you can enter the grounds and visit the main prayer hall and explore the surrounding park. Vendors at the gates sell flowers, candles and incense for a minimal fee, if you want to make an offering.

 

You will be required to remove your shoes to enter the main hall, where on the walls and ceilings there are some of the oldest Buddhist fresco paintings in the city, depicting the life of Buddha. Their muted colours are much less gaudy than those in the more modern pagodas.

 

Within the hall and grounds are hundreds of Buddha statues, a coffee shop, commercial craft centre 

 

and many small altars, spirit houses and stupas. 

(also known as chedis or chortens in other Buddhist cultures).

 

This green space is the second largest in the city and the largest open to the general public. It actually warrants a separate visit to fully appreciate it.

 

Head out again via the main gates keeping a keen eye out for hornbills. They often congregate in the trees at the front and those of the surrounding small streets especially at twilight. Cross the road and walk in front of the Electricite du Camboge Building and turn left into Street 98

 

On the corner of Street 98 and Street 13 just one block down you will find the dilapidated remaining structure of the original Police Station Building built along with the surrounding structures in about 1925. 

 

On the diagonally opposite corner is the Le Manolois restaurant and bar in a partially restored colonial era building.

 

At the corner of Street 98 turn right into to Post Office Square on Street 13 to admire the original colonial structure of the GPO and don’t forget to go inside to see the arched wooden shutters. 

Directly opposite the GPO are fine examples of colonial residential and commercial structures some in desperate need of repair, 

 

and others beautifully renovated.

 

As you leave the GPO, turn right at the main entrance and remain on Street 13 crossing over Street 102 on the same side of the road. Immediately opposite GPO Square on the corner are a collection of three buildings, which were built in the same era and were once the Bank of Indo Chine. The gates contain the initials in a logo design. 

 

The first is now a restaurant,

 

another is a night club, with shutters very similar to those inside the GPO at the first level, 

 

and the third at the end of that block is the Agence Française de Développement (AFD) offices providing much needed funds for developments such as the renovations of the Central Market Building. Note the same logo design on the gates here.

 

Continue on Street 13 one block and turn left into Street 108. Just before reaching the riverside there is an entrance to the residences above with this street art mural depicted on the western wall.

 

Retrace your steps along Street 108 and continue past the Phsar (market) Chas market area, turning left into the fresh vegetable section street-side then turn right at the pharmacy into Street 110 and keep an eye out for Jungle à Domicile on the righthand side several stores past Residence and Hotel 110. 

 

It’s easily missed so keep your eyes peeled. 

 

Venture inside the building to see the creative renovations and original art on the walls, 

and green spaces and various small Cambodian enterprises.

 

The top floor has a small free gallery and the current exhibition is always black-boarded at street level. Have a bit of photography fun while you're there too if you like. 

 

When you leave the building retrace your steps along Street 110 to opposite the beginning of the market and turn right into Street 15. Continue along until Street 130 then look up on the left-hand side. Before reaching Street 136, at about the midpoint these unusual curved shutters still grace the old facade.

 

Continue on Street 15 until you reach KL Plaza then turn left at Street 154. Tucked into a shady recess at the end of the strip of retail outlets still incomplete and largely empty is this fine example of a spirit house.

 

Walk to the nearby intersection of Street 13 and Wat Ounalom can be accessed on the right from the back entrance opposite KL Plaza.

 

Inside the compound of Wat Ounalom with its eclectic collection of buildings, memorial stupas, and statues are some incredible, original terrazzo designs in the porches of the buildings housing the monk body. Turn right at the first junction and this porch has a wonderful lotus design.

 

This eye-catching door design is based on traditional shadow puppetry and will enable you to locate the correct porch.  Retrace your steps to Street 13 and turn left.

 

One block down on the wall of Friends Future Factory adjacent to the Smile convenience store in Street 13 is this giant wall art mural and there are several more down this laneway.

 

Inside FFF which provides training for vulnerable youth is a collective of clothing outlets, plant retailers, craft stalls and beauty salons, mostly staffed by trainers and trainees. This set of angel wings can be found there,

 

 if you like me are up for a bit of fun. 

 

There is also a shady courtyard and bathroom facilities at this point. 

 

Across the road to the right are the studios of Rina - Chan Dina Gallery and Museum Art but be prepared to pay handsomely for any treasures you might covet. 

 

If you need sustenance about now there is plenty on offer in this neighbourhood but the hand pulled noodles at David’s Noodle House are an absolute favourite of mine and you get to watch the show of them being made if you choose to order them. Cheap and delicious as well as providing great entertainment.

 

Continue along Street 13 and turn left into Street 178. On the diagonally opposite corner is the National Museum and that is definitely worth a separate visit and requires a $10 entrance ticket.

 

At the first intersection turn left again at Samdech Sothea Ros Blvd: Street 3 and while this once stunning mural has succumbed to the demolition ball,

 

 Street 3 still contains a rather large Koi at the first laneway on the left, albeit in a little worse condition than when this was taken. Other eateries and the Sra Art Studio might also be worth exploring in this tiny street. 

 

About face and retrace your steps along Street 3 cross over Street 178 and continue towards the square in front of the Royal Palace. This once striking sight along the way has disappeared with the redevelopment currently taking place on that site but the UNESCO building on the corner is certainly worth viewing. 

UNESCO is not open to the public except on Heritage Day but the building itself is certainly worth a look.

 

Stumble into the square to admire the many traditional buildings of the Royal Palace visible from the outside and the riverside views. 

(Royal Palace: $10 entrance fee. Open 8-11am and 2-5pm) 

Hornbill spotting is also possible in this zone.

 

Return to the corner of UNESCO and turn left to enjoy a shady walk between the grounds of the Royal Palace and the National Museum and Art School in a pedestrian only zone which aligns with Street 184 at the far end.

Crossing into Street 184 it’s possible to discover this adorable image of cyclists on a wall on the left-hand side inside a cafe’s courtyard but it is now almost completely concealed by planters and a takeaway stall.

 

I therefore recommend taking a left at Street 19 to continue along the uncluttered footpath of the back of the Royal Palace grounds, watching out for this Bhutanese blessing on the wall on the opposite side of the street.

 

At the corner of Street 240 turn right and on the righthand side there is always a free exhibition at the Gallerist. The whole block of this street is a treasure trove of collectibles made in Cambodia; art, fashion, textiles, jewellery and homewares and a wide range of eateries. Don’t miss Shade 240 and right next door the newly opened KOKI Kitchen for some delicious local gelato to cool you off.

 

Return to the corner at Street 19 and continue along Street 240. This mural is visible and will help you find the correct narrow laneway on the right to enter. It’s before the next intersection. 

 

Check out both sides of the laneway 

 

and follow its meandering path leading Space Four Zero 

 

and then on around the corner to this and many other street art works on the twisting laneway which exits at unmarked Street 244. Then turn left.

This Buddha sits street-side at the entrance to Le Botum Hotel on the left before reaching Street 7. 

At the end of Street 244 wander through the playground across Street 7, turning left as you exit and cross Botum Park and Street 3 to find the small laneway to the left of KL Apartment Building. 

 

On the left side you will see this abstract floral design

and it also contains this distinctly Khmer image on a wall clearly within sight from the main road.

 

Return to Street 3 and turn right. At the next intersection turn right again into Street 246. On the righthand side an interesting framer’s gallery, and small local eateries and bars can be seen before passing Backyard Café to discover Fox Tale where we end with coffee and time to rest those tired feet. Don’t forget to check out the wall mural of Sin Sisamouth, considered the King of Khmer Music on the interior while you are there

 

        * Much of this is street art and pieces disappear and others emerge so if you are unable to find some images you will most likely find alternatives nearby or in the same location. 

    *If you did try this self-guided walk then please leave a comment or an update for others here and share the love.