weekend escape to Phongmey

Last weekend we took ourselves back up to Phongmey ostensibly to see the Tshechu but also to stay with Becky and to have more than a few fleeting moments in the town.

We went on a brief walk around the outskirts of town. I just love that it was a loop and a daily routine for our BCF colleague. We did have one heart thumping moment when a huge (at least 2-metre long) cobra at the side of the road, raised its hood as we passed. I missed that spectacular display in my eagerness to flee but I did capture it before it disappeared down a hole nearby.

We circumambulated the small town, before plonking ourselves down on a bench conveniently placed to view the whole township and contemplate the universe. Apparently it is a favourite resting spot complete with picturesque crumbling chorten. As we were heading down we were insistently summoned to share tea with a local couple, who live nearby and were no doubt aware of Becky’s frequent visits to that spot but we managed to decline without offending.

There was an even more enticing village above us but at dusk with the light fading we did the gracious thing and saved it for another day.

At almost every turn in the main street we were greeted by Becky’s students and it is so obvious how much they adore her.

As is always the case the time simply evaporated once we got back to Becky’s beautiful little forestry department cottage. She had warned us, that the power was likely to go out and that it was damp and mouldy but it sure seemed like a comfortable home to us. Right on cue the power did go out and we were instantly grateful for the readymade momos and the plentiful supply of beer we had brought with us. On that account I am sure we were the bad influence.

Shortly after the power returned we had a squealing and chasing episode with a small but unwelcome rodent and managed to at least see how it exited. This inspired diligent closure of the gaping hole and we never spotted it again so it might just have been both dissuaded and excluded from reentry.

The next morning we donned our traditional attire and made our way up to the Lhakang for the second day of the big festivities. Becky doesn’t wear kira that often but she stole the show once one of her students fixed up my poor effort at getting her into her beautiful new hand-woven kira. I can dress myself in this attire but I am not at all adept at putting someone else into it. In fact that morning I had to take my own off to work out how to do it.

We wandered around and enjoyed the crowd, the atmosphere and the performances. I now realise that we understand a lot more of what happens than we did in November last year when we saw our first Tshechu in Trashigang.

It was wonderful to see Becky’s students’ eyes light up at the sight of her and how eager they were to interact with us all. Of course there were also a few of my own and Ian’s students in the crowd.

We had the chance to enter the costume room as well as being almost in the performing area. 

The black hat dance I am now familiar with and really love but I am still not quick enough to capture the flow and grace of the dancers.

One masked dance was all we got to see as we planned to walk the 16 kms back to Rangjung and wanted to leave with plenty of time to achieve that task before dark.

As it turned out we had incredible good fortune at the crossing we were most concerned about. While we were staring it down and considering the best route, a vehicle came through heading to Phongmey. The driver instantly indicated that he would turn around and drive us across and we jumped at the chance.

Our good intentions of hiking all the way back were tested a few times with offers of lifts as the afternoon progressed and at the half way point we succumbed and accepted as we were both feeling the effects of the 8kms we had covered already having done little walking recently.

That turned out to be a good decision as I think one of my toes is broken and that was causing me to walk oddly and I ended up with blisters on both feet from the distance we did cover!!

Time to get back into some serious walking as we have a 16km walk to Trashigang coming up in November as a part of the Sherig Century celebrations (100 years of education in Bhutan.) 

Thanks for a great weekend Becky. I just know that Martha would have loved Tshechu.

Photo essay: Martha in Bhutan

In the last week I have had more page views on this blog than ever before and I do not kid myself that it is because I write so well. I know full well that it is because people, especially in Canada but also in other countries, are keen to make sense of Martha's sad passing. With this in mind I have decided to post a blog of some of her time here. I know that it is brief but I hope it conveys some of the joy and adventure she experienced. 

Early days just weeks after she moved into her room next to the warden onsite at 

Dungste Middle Secondary School.

Our first real fun together was when she and Becky came down to Rangjung where we live for the King's Birth Anniversary public holiday. We all met at the half way point and then hiked down together from there: 16 kms for all of us in total and it was great.

On the suspension bridge just beyond the back gate to Rangjung Lower Secondary School.

I really got to know her and enjoy some down time with her when we all synchronised to be able to attend the book fair in Mongar together to buy books for our respective schools.

Martha was never one to do things in half measures and I

 just love these shots of her in in buying mode at the fair!

Not long after Sam Bythe the founder of Bhutan Canada Foundation hosted a dinner in Trashigang which several of us BCFers were able to attend though the notice was certainly late and we drifted in, in what can only be described as Bhutanese Stretchable Time.

There were also occasions when we all much to our surprise unexpectedly bumped into each other in what I like to call the "small smoke" of Trashigang town. Martha always chortled at that!

This shot is courtesy of Martin and at Burning Lake in Bumthang. She was torn between attending the BCF retreat and coming with Tim, Ian and myself to hike into Sakteng but she was very happy that she went with the majority of the BCF teachers and loved the retreat and hike they did.

The classes she taught waiting with anticipation at the cremation grounds. Dasho (the governor of Trashigang District)  is speaking to them

Her arrival from Mongar at the cremation grounds near Rangjung.

The BCF teachers and many but not all of the dignitaries present on the day.

The funeral pyre.

Nancy Strickland speaking to students who Martha taught.

The boy second from the right in the front row typifies the grief they felt. He was a special favourite of hers and I remember speaking with her about him at the sports meet at our school. I knew he would be there that day and when I approached him and gave him a photo of himself receiving at prize at that event, he said "With Madam Martha?" and looked at it and I instantly felt his disappointment that she was not in the photo.

Last night in Rangjung Monastery the 7 day memorial was held and we lit 1,000 butter lamps as is the tradition. I thought it was important that students were involved as that is why Martha was here and my home class XC jumped at the chance to accompany Ian and I. 

They had already held a ceremony at at school a couple of days ago but this time they collected money from many students in the school including their class to light this particular butter lamp that will burn for more than 2 months we are told.

After lighting the butter lamps last night at twilight in Rangjung in front of the monastery.

memorial prayers to Madam Martha

A special evening prayer session was held at my school tonight sponsored by my home class XC in honour of Madam Martha. They made hundreds of butter lamps and handed out candy and gum to the whole school too. I just love them!

I have been on the verge of tears all week and this morning when they announced that they would sponsor a special prayer session for Madam Martha beacuse today was an auspicious day I immediately agreed that Ian and I would attend. I am astounded by their sensitivity.

They organised for us to sit in seats of honour and immediately took to the task that they had set themselves. Class captain Karma Tenzin did himself proud. He is a boy whose reputation precedes him but tonight he proved the pundits wrong. He was calm and in control.


 The girls too played and active role and I know that would have pleased Martha. They all continued the chanting with haunting dedication and devotion even when the whole hall was plunged into darkness, as the power went out. No-one moved and the whole student body just reverted to what they knew by heart without missing a beat. Even Ian and I were able to recognise one of the prayers.

Wangda Gyeltshen gently led us though what we had to do and when, with poise and composure. Although I can rarely get him to speak in class, here he was in his element directing us with expertise.

Ian was impressed with their organisation and I loved that they knew how much it meant to me. We have become so close to each other. Last Thursday in class different students jumped to their feet to share their own interactions with Martha totally unsolicited. "She talks a lot." "And loudly." "She laughs all the time." She talked to me at the Dzongkhag sports meet." I had to ask them to stop for fear of bursting into tears. 

On Thursday the 7th  day memorial service will be held in Rangjung and I know that many BCFers would like to be able to participate but XC will be able to accompany Ian and I to the monastery in the evening. Then monks will do the chanting but we will all get to light butter lamps together again. I thought that it was really important that students were involved as that is really why Martha was here.


Just when I feel most likely to fall apart they are exhibiting their resilience. I envy them their rituals and faith.