Khmer New Year in Riverside Phnom Penh

I’m glad we made sure to return to PP for Khmer New Year.  “Sursedey Chnam Thmey”

During the day the streets are calm quiet and bare. By night a riotous party is taking place. 

Many large and small businesses are closed for varying amounts of time but every service is possible and absolutely anything can still be bought

Come late afternoon, blaring music starts and laughter accompanies it. By dusk there is shade and dancing in the streets. It’s time for the frivolity to commence with water splashing, pouring and dumping and pastes of coloured talcum powder smearing over faces and dusting over clothes. A presence on the streets is an indication of your willingness to participate. 

 

The intense skirmishes of water fighting of seconds before is instantly a ceasefire if the water pistol tank should empty. Former foes refill for each other then resume the battle. Hoses, buckets, basins, cups, any vessel can be used. Backpacks of water attached to serious looking shooters is this year’s new take on how to participate. 

This being the hottest season of the year - the dry leading into the monsoon rains, people welcome the drenching for its cooling effect.  It’s all in such good fun. There is a festive atmosphere. 

*Thanks to Ian for this ambush and shampoo episode - watch the guy in a white T-shirt 

If your face needs a wash or hair is rigid with dried coloured powder willing volunteers douse you at every opportunity. Shampooing is also a possibility and mostly unsuspecting passersby are ambushed but without objecting they submit to a roadside hair wash. This too was a new take at least to me. 

I guess anything involving water in a relatively harmless way is totally acceptable and anyone fair game. Squeals and screams of delight, surprise and shock punctuate the chants, laughter and music. It’s good natured and fun mostly. 

This revelry continues over three nights. The Wat Phnom / Night Market / General Post Office zone becomes a cultural village, kiddies playground and venue for offerings, traditional games and music and dance performances. Walking Street is hopping for all three evenings and the streets heave. Food stalls, handicraft outlets, clothing and jewelry stalls,  live music stages and an impressive parade provide something for everyone.

Inside these locations is a water free zone but to get to them and between them you must run the gauntlet or saunter resigned to a soaking. It is nigh on impossible to arrive dry or without a powder coating but no one objects. 

We were thinking that the water bombardment would not happen this year as there was a ban in place but it seems instead to have been contained to smaller, more manageable zones and the police are non threatening and not adverse to being included or photographed. 

Well into the early hours of the morning the joyous celebrations continue. No public drunkenness. No fighting. No accidents despite the ambushing of motor scooters by hose wielding warriors. It truly embodies that Khmer spirit of non confrontational harmony. 

Anyone seriously trying to escape a barrage of powder or water is left in peace. Families walk by. Respect is shown. 

By the third day it is more of the same, for much longer and very much louder, but it is light hearted and playful.  

It will take time for the city to completely reopen and days before everyone can put those water weapons away but it’s hot, it’s humid and we are all enjoying the celebration. It’s joyful, inclusive and accepting. 

18/4  Footnote: 

It seems it will continue for three more nights with pure delight, unabated enthusiasm and ever more volume and larger crowds. Nothing for it but to go with the flow and observe the spectacle. 

The lessons and blessings of 2025

 

This has been the best year yet for connection. There have been an abundance of simple celebrations, making new connections, reviving old ones and maintaining close ones. 

For me finding not only that we love to host friends and family, but that we now enjoy being hosted too, has been a revelation. 

We have always paid our own way and especially tried to avoid staying with even long term friends with only very few exceptions but in the past 12 months we have stayed with friends in both Australia and Cambodia and hosted more guests than ever before too.  Feeling a sense of belonging in another household and contributing to it is special.  

 

With friendships that have survived decades of us living abroad , seen career and relationship disasters, weddings and children and now grandchildren, there is a sense of belonging that cannot be replaced.  A few weeks of reconnecting in Australia made us both feel incredibly fortunate to have such a wonderful tribe of unique and eccentric friends: too many to include photographs of everyone but you know who you are and how well loved you are too. The time spent with family was also thoroughly enjoyable and well overdue. 

For us the greatest blessing of the time we have spent in the Kingdom of Wonder will always be our continuing engagement with the little monks of Kep. Many of those original boys have now taken very divergent paths in life and are no longer little but several have gone on to become ordained monks.  It was pure joy for us to see one of the older students from our original class now able to conduct formal ceremonies and manage the affairs of the monastery in the absence of the Abbot. He always showed such potential and purpose and to see him now flourishing is wonderful. 

While it might seem there is a free flow of alcohol and cocktails from the images selected here, there have also been some alcohol free days and the mandatory month of abstinence.  

The only positive that came from losing connection from Facebook, Instagram and WhatsApp for over three weeks, was that I suddenly realized how overwhelmingly biased towards the metaverse all my communications were and started writing emails again. More blogs were also posted as well as choosing alternative apps. Long term friends across the globe responded quickly and that was heartwarming.  

The Cambodian community in  which we live continues to feel friendly, inclusive, welcoming and supportive. They also enjoy the frequent visits of our guests and friends who they constantly see trouping through the communal zones and delight in now recognizing many of them . 

The cultural backdrop of Cambodia has changed in recent months and there is an undeniable feeling of anger at the current escalation of ongoing conflict with Thailand. While that means there is an underlying sense of unease, the camaraderie of people and unwavering support and generosity they exhibit is delightful. They are more than happy to assist each other in any way possible. This bond is strengthening daily and is a joy to witness.   

We remain very grateful to be able to contribute in a very small way by volunteering over the holiday period and are glad that this year’s efforts are directed towards both vulnerable children and families and the ever growing numbers of displaced people and refugees. 

May peace return  and sense prevail soon. 

Wishing you all the very best of the holiday season and a safe, healthy and fun year ahead. 

oNe PhOtO a DaY jUnE 2024:

JUNE 1st I AM … re-retired and very excited about the upcoming adventure. Despite having repeatedly stressed to students not to bring us gifts of course some of them did. I adore this bouquet given to me yesterday and what better gift for a former English teacher than a handful of books

JUNE 2nd I HELD THIS … keep cup full of coffee at a little rest spot on our hike this morning

 

JUNE 3rd I WALKED HERE … at the Zangdo Pelri Lhakhang today. Circumambulating the chorten and the whole compound turning all the giant prayer wheels along with the old timers who were delighted to see us there

JUNE 4th I FEEL … 
At last I’m free
To breath and be me
To wander where I like 
To go slow and see
To take my time 
And just to be 

This is re-retired me

 

JUNE 5th I SAW … this on the early morning City Bus today. Three orange clad “De-suups” (which translates to guardians of peace) heading to their assignment for the day sitting on the engine cover as the bus was packed with commuters, school children and others like us enjoying the service

JUNE 6th I LOVE … Bhutanese Culture. Today we went to see the ‘Her Expression’ exhibition celebrating women artist and this was probably the most traditional piece and the one I was immediately drawn to. It is titled “Window of Devotion” and it was created by Choney Pelzang

JUNE 7th I HAVE … an obsession with both prayer flags and prayer wheels and this shot ticks all the boxes. I also have a feeling this road trip is off to a great start

JUNE 8th I LIKE TO EAT… local and sustainable whenever possible. Now that we are in Haa that means Hoentey: a kind of dumpling made with buckwheat flour in the pastry and dried turnip greens in the filling. Both local products

 

JUNE 9th I READ THIS … “Monk Chasing Monkey” by Kunzang Choden who happens to be my favourite Bhutanese author. I bought it when we first arrived and read only half before there was no time to read and then started it again yesterday and read almost half in one sitting. It’s fabulous

 

JUNE 10th I STOOD HERE ... at the lookout point for Tigers Nest Monastery just 10 minutes ago. Bhutan’s most famous landmark.  Now visited for the sixth time and always well worth the strenuous climb

JUNE 11th I WORK HERE ... I’m happy to say I no longer work anywhere for a salary but my current “work” is showcasing the beautiful Bhutanese culture to our guest and I am enjoying it very much

JUNE 12th I LIKE TO … eat momos and these were extra special as they were three different vegetarian varieties - chillies and cheese, mixed vegetables and cheese and sag

 

JUNE 13th I KNOW … I have visited and photographed this gorgeous Dzong many times before but I had to go inside once more today as I may never get another opportunity and I simply love the original 17th century structure

 

JUNE 14th I LOVE THIS VIEW... Any view involving the masked dancers of Tshechu is definitely one I love and this small rural Lhakhang in Nimalung this morning was really delightful

JUNE 15th ON WEEKENDS I ... always try my best get outdoors and explore and hike. Today was no exception and we discovered the monks at Tamshing preparing butter lamps and sculptures for a ritual

JUNE 16th I CREATE … room picnic meals when we travel because I miss having at least a third of my diet raw every day. This was dinner last night

 

JUNE 17th I BOUGHT … ten sets of prayer flags to fly at every mountain pass on this road trip and today at 9am we hoisted this set at Thrumsing La. At 3752 metres it’s the highest pass heading east

 

JUNE 18th I LOVE THIS TIME OF DAY … when we circumambulate any chorten that happens to be nearby, as we have every day since we arrived in Bhutan in late February. 

I love it even more when we have just added the splash of colour of these prayer flags in memory of a friend’s mother, who recently passed away and for whom a funeral was held today in Adelaide. We did exactly the same for the deceased’s good friend over a decade ago and as luck would have it, this was our one day in the same town. Memories and memorials to mark big life events. 

JUNE 19th I LIKE TO DRINK … red wine but only when the weather is cool. Despite being summer it’s still pretty cool out in Trashiyangste so we were on a mission today to find some. Its isn’t easy to come by but we have ourselves a treat or two night

 

JUNE 20th I DON’T LIKE TO …. get to places only to find them closed. Today we visited the College for Zorig Chusum (tertiary institution for learning the 13 traditional arts of Bhutan) arriving just before lunch so we got to see several classes in action but the showroom and shop were locked up tight and I would have made a purchase to support the talented, budding, young artists had they been open

JUNE 21st I WENT TO … College for Zorig Chusum or more accurately went back there today and we made a small purchase to support their vital work in maintaining the arts and crafts of Bhutanese culture

JUNE 22^nd ON SATURDAYS I … do my best to live in the present and appreciate time and place. Today we departed Trashiyangtse and we just had to stop by Gom Kora to circumambulate, turn the prayer wheels and take in the atmosphere of one of Bhutan’s most historically significant sights. She was beckoning me to join her and like all locals thrilled we were participating in the everyday rituals 

JUNE 23rd I ONCE … stood in the police box in the main traffic circle in Thimphu but I made no attempt to direct traffic. It was a public holiday and the street was closed but I later discovered you are definitely not meant to do that …. Oops (Archive shot)

 

JUNE 24th I SAT HERE … in a new to us vegetarian restaurant for breakfast. I also donned my new T-shirt for the first time - it says “Hello Bhutan”

 

JUNE 25th I CAN … still bring a smile to a child’s face and make a connection even without a shared language. Today’s excursion to Trong Heritage Village in Zhemgang was delightful and the scenery on the drive in was surreal

 

JUNE 26th I CAN’T … even begin to imagine working these steep sloped paddies all my life, but today’s vista included many even steeper than these and it was mostly elderly folk out doing the work too

 

JUNE 27th I LIVE … in the present and have returned to my long term commitment to a slow, simple, sustainable and safe lifestyle. If there is a fresh salad made from local ingredients available in town, I will sniff it out! Today I did exactly that

JUNE 28th I WORE THIS… One of my most comfortable travelling outfits and now we are back in Paro I’m glad to abandon the hiking pants for a while

 

JUNE 29th I FOUND … the perfect Bhutanese birthday gift for the man who loves to cook and will miss this cuisine. That’s to say nothing of me also reaping the benefits of a few delicious dinners. Who cares if the luggage is overweight?

 

JUNE 30th I DO THIS ON SUNDAYS: I make a point of Sunday being a fun-day and today was no exception. As our last day in Bhutan with a late departure, it had to be about spending time with the fabulous four and they even brought a surprise guest too. Spending time together over the last 18 weeks has brought us so much joy. Fingers crossed this isn’t the last time we all hang out together in the kingdom but it will never be goodbye 

 

THE PROMPTS