THE ONE MOST OF US SEE FIRST IS IN PARO.
Let
me begin by explaining that I am no expert on this topic but I do have an
enduring fascination with these symbolic and spectacular structures, which dot
the landscape across Bhutan and often take one’s breath away with their
whimsical appearance in the most unlikely of settings. I never seem to tire of
seeing them or exploring their interior courtyards.
Basically
a Dzong is translated as a fortress and they do have an almost fairytale castle
look about them. Most are ancient structures built in imposing locations high
on ridges, overlooking valleys and dominating the surrounding landscape.
HAA BORDERING TIBET HAS HAD ITS DZONG PURLOINED FOR ALTERNATIVE PURPOSES, BUT A NEW ONE IS UNDER CONSTRUCTION
Many
if not all, were constructed of wood, stones and rammed earth in the 17th
century. The inside of each, is as distinctive as the exterior and the location
in which it has been placed. There are similarities, which make even a novice
like me certain of when I am looking at one or the ruins of one. There are
courtyards and three storied towers, high walls and intricately carved and
painted woodwork and steep ladder-like stairs with banisters smooth as silk
with a shining patina created by the thousand of hands that have slid over them
for centuries. To stand inside one for the first time is a magical moment.
TRASHI-YANGSTE'S NEW RELPICA STANDS ABOVE THE TOWN LIKE A PROTECTIVE SENTINEL
Even those newly constructed have been created to duplicate the best of the ancient fortresses.
THE ONE WITH WHICH WE ARE MOST FAMILAR DUE TO OUR TIME IN RANGJUNG IS TRASHIGANG
As
the centres of government administration in each district, they play an
essential role in the lives of the local people but they also house bodies of
monks and are places of deeply religious significance. They signify the
unification of the Kingdom of Bhutan and are a tribute to the mastery and
ingenuity of the trade’s people of ancient times. Bhutanese need no reminder
that they must adhere to strict dress codes and rigid protocol and etiquette
are essential within these hallowed walls.
They come to life during the festivals and Tshechu and teem with people
throughout the year.
When
the Wangdue Phodrang Dzong tragically burned in 2012 there was no loss of life
and the monks living within the compound managed to flee down the steep cliff
face carrying the ancient treasures once housed within, but the nation mourned.
In every remote corner of the kingdom prayers were chanted and blessings sought
and solace derived from participation in these consoling rituals and prayer.
JAKAR THE HEARLAND OF BHUTANESE CULTURE
Even
those of us who had seen the dzong only once or twice crossing the country felt
the loss and I still feel a lump rise in my throat every time I sight those
ruins on the ridge above Bajo town. Like all Bhutanese, one immediately
comforts oneself with the thought that in the not too distant future it will be
painstakingly resorted and rebuilt and to the untrained eye it will not be at
all obvious that the original was destroyed.
We
feel privileged to have been able to see so many of these ancient monuments and
at different times, festivals, seasons and even historic moments. This is a
photographic showcase of the stunning architecture, of what I consider to be
Bhutan’s most distinctive manmade structure.
PUNAKHA THE "PIECE DE RESISTANCE" IN ITS MOST SPECTACULAR SEASON
I was inspired to compile it, by
being able to visit the Semtokha Dzong today. Having driven by it thinking we
must go there, so many times in the past, now seemed the right time, given that
yesterday’s public holiday was to honour Zhabdrung Ngawang Namyal, who unified
Bhutan and built this, the first of its Dzongs in 1629.
THE HISTORIC FIRST EVER DZONG OF BHUTAN IN SEMTOKHA
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